There I was surrounded by people floating up and down, I push down on my board and take an extremely long breath and dive down under the pounding wave, and pop back on the other side this is where I wanted to be.
My board is slim and slick it rips through the waves and leaves no Mark on the water. I am like no other, I saw up into the air and smack back down flying across the last roll of the wave. Other people push out into the ocean on there big heavy boards with no speed or dynamics and just glide through the long crashing wave. Others love to shred the wave and get the most out of the most twists and turns that the wave produces I believe that swiftly twisting and jumping is the best way. cool and calm or rough and white the waves always suit me.
The water is the most important part it's rough blue waves that do all the work they push and swirl, to help you shred the wave on warm or cold silky water. The seaweed flows through the waves and flies out the other side, just like what happens to me when my foots in the wrong place it happens quite a bit.
Beaches affect how people surf, when your beach is long and white you get a stronger wave. You can go for longer and even stronger and jump and crashes as much as you want on the cool blue and white waves. The rocky, sandy beaches are full of people and with smiling faces it gives you a feeling of confidence as you flow up and down and to the perfect wave.